If you're working on a 2007 Toyota 4Runner, one of the first things you'll want to get right is the oil capacity. It's a simple spec, but getting it wrong can mean the difference between a smooth-running engine and a costly repair. The 2007 toyota 4runner oil capacity depends entirely on which engine you have under the hood, the 4.0L V6 takes 6.2 quarts with a filter change, while the 4.7L V8 needs 6.4 quarts.
Those numbers aren't interchangeable, and guessing can lead to serious problems.
Manufacturer specifications from Toyota's 2007 owner's manual confirm these figures, and as of 2026, they remain the standard for every 4Runner from that model year. Whether you're doing your first oil change or your fiftieth, knowing the exact capacity for your specific engine is the foundation of a proper service. Let's walk through everything you need to know, from the numbers to the process to the common pitfalls that trip up even experienced owners.
Quick Answer
The 2007 Toyota 4Runner takes 6.2 quarts of oil with the 4.0L V6 engine. The 4.7L V8 needs 6.4 quarts with a filter change. Both engines require 5W-30 viscosity oil meeting API SN or SP certification.
Always check your dipstick after filling. Add oil slowly and recheck to avoid overfilling.
Why Getting the Oil Capacity Right Matters for Your 2007 4Runner
Oil is the lifeblood of your engine. It lubricates, cools, and cleans every moving part inside that 1GR-FE or 2UZ-FE powerplant. Put in too little, and you risk metal-on-metal contact that can destroy bearings and score cylinder walls.
Put in too much, and the crankshaft whips the oil into foam, foam that can't lubricate properly, leading to oil starvation and potential engine failure.
Image source: Bing (Web (fair-use with source credit))
Toyota engineers designed these engines with specific clearances and oil pump capacities that match the factory fill numbers. Straying too far from those numbers, even by half a quart, can affect oil pressure and long-term reliability. Our research across service forums and owner reports consistently shows that most oil-related issues in these trucks trace back to incorrect fill volumes.
The 2007 4Runner is a rugged, reliable vehicle. With proper maintenance, these engines easily surpass 250,000 miles. But that longevity depends on getting the basics right.
Oil capacity is about as basic as it gets, yet it's surprisingly easy to mess up.
There's also a financial angle. Overfilling can cause oil to leak past seals and gaskets, leading to expensive repairs. Underfilling can cause premature wear that shortens engine life.
Getting it exactly right is free, and it's the single best thing you can do for your engine's health.
The 4.0L V6 (1GR-FE): Capacity, Viscosity, and What You Need to Know
The 4.0L V6 is the most common engine in the 2007 4Runner. Toyota's 1GR-FE is a proven workhorse, known for its durability and smooth power delivery. If you own a 4Runner with this engine, your oil capacity is 6.2 quarts (5.9 liters) when you also replace the oil filter.
Image source: Bing (Web (fair-use with source credit))
Here's what Toyota specifies for this engine:
| Spec | Value |
|---|---|
| Oil capacity with filter | 6.2 quarts (5.9 liters) |
| Oil capacity without filter | 6.0 quarts (5.7 liters) |
| Recommended viscosity | 5W-30 |
| API certification | SN or newer (SP recommended) |
| ILSAC certification | GF-5 or GF-6 |
The 5W-30 weight is a deliberate choice by Toyota. It provides excellent cold-start protection down to -20°F while maintaining proper viscosity at operating temperature. Some owners wonder about switching to 0W-20 for better fuel economy.
Manufacturer specifications indicate that 5W-30 remains the correct choice for this engine, regardless of climate.
If you live in an extremely cold region, 0W-30 is an acceptable alternative that meets the same API standards. But don't go heavier. Using 10W-30 or 10W-40 can cause sluggish cold starts and reduced oil flow during warm-up, which accelerates wear.
A common question is whether you should use synthetic or conventional oil. Toyota doesn't mandate either. The 1GR-FE was designed around conventional oil, but synthetic offers better high-temperature stability and longer change intervals.
Many owners switch to synthetic around 60,000 miles with excellent results. Just make sure whatever you choose meets API SN or SP standards.
The 4.7L V8 (2UZ-FE): How It Differs and Why It Matters
The 4.7L V8 is the other engine option for the 2007 4Runner, and it's a different animal entirely. Toyota's 2UZ-FE is legendary for its robustness, it's the same basic engine that powered the Land Cruiser and Tundra for years. Its oil capacity is 6.4 quarts (6.1 liters) with a filter change.
Here's the spec sheet for the V8:
| Spec | Value |
|---|---|
| Oil capacity with filter | 6.4 quarts (6.1 liters) |
| Oil capacity without filter | 6.2 quarts (5.9 liters) |
| Recommended viscosity | 5W-30 |
| API certification | SN or newer |
| ILSAC certification | GF-5 or GF-6 |
The extra 0.2 quarts over the V6 isn't just a random number. The 2UZ-FE has a larger oil pan and a different oil pump design. It also holds more oil in the filter housing.
Using the V6's capacity in a V8 will leave you about half a quart low, enough to trigger low oil pressure warnings under hard cornering or steep inclines.
One thing that catches owners off guard: the V8's oil filter is in a slightly different location than the V6. On the 2UZ-FE, the filter mounts horizontally on the driver's side of the engine block, near the oil pan. It's accessible but tight.
The V6's filter is also on the driver's side but angled slightly upward. Knowing your engine layout saves you from swearing at a filter you can't reach.
If you've ever wondered about your Toyota's other engine specs, our guide on the correct fluid level for the 2025 Tacoma covers similar territory for that platform.
Both engines use the same 5W-30 viscosity, which simplifies things if you own multiple Toyotas. But the capacity difference means you can't just pour in the same amount and call it done. Always check which engine you're working on before you start pouring.
What Happens When You Get the Capacity Wrong: Real Risks
This isn't academic. Getting the oil capacity wrong has real consequences, and they range from annoying to catastrophic.
Overfilling by one quart or more is more common than you'd think. The engine feels like it's running fine at first. But the extra oil gets whipped into a froth by the crankshaft.
Foam doesn't pump well. It doesn't transfer heat well. And it definitely doesn't lubricate well.
Within a few hundred miles, you can see increased oil consumption, blue smoke from the exhaust, and eventually, failed bearings.
Underfilling by half a quart is subtler but just as dangerous. Oil pressure drops, especially during hard acceleration or when climbing steep grades. The engine runs hotter.
Wear accelerates on the rod and main bearings. Many owners don't notice until they hear a knocking sound, at which point the damage is already done.
Using the wrong viscosity creates its own set of problems. 10W-30 in cold weather causes slow oil flow at startup, which means more wear during those critical first seconds of operation. The "W" stands for winter, and the number before it tells you how the oil flows at 0°F. Lower is better for cold starts.
Toyota's 5W-30 recommendation balances cold flow with high-temperature protection.
Image source: Web (Bing) / polyrub.co.in (Web image (fair-use with source credit))
Mixing conventional and synthetic oils is less risky than many think. They're compatible. But if you switch back and forth, you lose the extended change interval benefits of synthetic.
Pick one and stick with it for the life of the oil change.
Forgetting the crush washer is a classic DIY mistake that costs oil and creates a mess. That small aluminum ring on the drain plug crushes to form a seal. Reuse it once or twice and it might still seal.
Reuse it three or four times and you're almost guaranteed a slow drip.
Step-by-Step: How to Do a Perfect Oil Change on Your 2007 4Runner
A proper oil change on a 2007 4Runner takes about 30 minutes if you have the right tools and follow the process. Here's exactly what you need and how to do it.
Tools and Parts You'll Need
| Item | Details |
|---|---|
| Oil | 6.2 quarts (V6) or 6.4 quarts (V8) of 5W-30 |
| Oil filter | OEM 04152-YZZA1 or equivalent quality aftermarket |
| Drain plug crush washer | Toyota 90430-12031 or equivalent size M14 |
| Socket wrench | 14mm socket for drain plug |
| Torque wrench | 5-50 ft-lb range recommended |
| Oil filter wrench | Cap-style or three-jaw, fits OEM filter |
| Drain pan | Minimum 8-quart capacity |
| Funnel | Long neck preferred for tight access |
| Rags | Plenty of them |
The Process From Start to Finish
1. Warm up the engine. Run it for 3-5 minutes. Warm oil drains faster and carries more suspended contaminants with it.
Don't let it get hot enough to burn you, just warm to the touch.
2. Park on level ground and engage the parking brake. If you need more clearance, use jack stands. Never crawl under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
3. Remove the oil filler cap. This lets air in and helps the oil drain faster. It also reminds you to add oil later.
4. Drain the old oil. Place your drain pan under the oil pan. Loosen the drain plug with a 14mm socket.
Turn it counterclockwise until it's free. Remove it by hand, the last few threads are finger-tight. Let the oil drain completely, about 5 minutes.
5. Replace the crush washer. Slide the old one off the drain plug. Slide the new one on.
Hand-tighten the plug, then torque it to 30 ft-lbs (40 Nm). Overtightening can strip the oil pan threads, a costly repair.
6. Remove the old oil filter. Position the drain pan under the filter. Loosen it with the filter wrench.
Once it's loose, finish by hand. Expect about half a quart of oil to come out. Wipe the filter mounting surface clean with a rag.
7. Install the new oil filter. Lightly oil the new filter's gasket with fresh oil. Screw it on by hand until the gasket contacts the mounting surface.
Then tighten it another three-quarters turn. Most OEM filters are hand-tight plus ¾ turn. Don't use a wrench for the final tighten unless you're dealing with a stubborn fit.
Image source: Web (Bing) / storage.googleapis.com (Web image (fair-use with source credit))
8. Add the new oil. Remove the oil filler cap. Insert your funnel.
For the V6, pour in about 5.5 quarts. For the V8, pour in about 5.7 quarts. Replace the filler cap.
9. Check the dipstick. Wait 2-3 minutes for the oil to settle. Pull the dipstick, wipe it clean, reinsert it fully, then pull it again.
The oil level should be between the low and high marks, ideally near the top mark. Add oil in quarter-quart increments until you reach the correct level.
10. Run the engine and check for leaks. Start the engine and let it idle for 30 seconds. Check the drain plug and oil filter for any drips.
Shut it off. Wait 5 minutes, then recheck the dipstick. Top off if needed.
Toyota's own service literature emphasizes checking the dipstick on level ground with the engine off and cold for the most accurate reading. Warm oil expands and can give a false high reading.
Choosing the Right Oil: Synthetic vs Conventional, Viscosity Explained
The 2007 4Runner's engine doesn't care whether you use synthetic or conventional. It cares about viscosity and certification. Let's break down your options.
5W-30 is the factory recommendation for both engines. That's what Toyota put in at the factory and what the owner's manual calls for. It's available in conventional, synthetic blend, and full synthetic formulations. Any of them work.
Synthetic oil flows better in cold weather and resists breaking down at high temperatures. It can extend your change interval from 5,000 miles to 7,500 or even 10,000 miles, depending on your driving conditions. The downside is cost, about double the price of conventional per quart.
Conventional oil is perfectly fine for this engine if you change it on schedule. Toyota's original engineering assumed conventional oil. Many 4Runners have gone 200,000 miles on nothing but conventional 5W-30.
Synthetic blend offers a middle ground. It's about 30% more expensive than conventional but provides better protection than straight conventional. For most owners, this is the sweet spot.
What about 0W-20? Some Toyota models from later years use it. The 2007 4Runner is not one of them. Using 0W-20 in a 1GR-FE or 2UZ-FE can cause increased oil consumption and reduced engine protection at high temperatures.
Stick with 5W-30.
If you're curious how other Toyota models compare, our guide on the proper oil for the 2021 Camry shows how specs vary across the lineup. Every engine has its own requirements.
Oil Filter: OEM vs Aftermarket – Does It Actually Matter?
The oil filter is a small component with a big job. It removes contaminants from the oil before they can circulate through the engine. A bad filter can let debris through.
A good filter can extend engine life.
Toyota OEM filters are made by Denso and carry part number 04152-YZZA1 (or the newer YZZA2). They have a bypass valve set to open at the correct pressure for the 1GR-FE and 2UZ-FE engines. They also have the right thread pitch and gasket size.
They cost about $8-12.
Aftermarket filters vary widely in quality. Brands like Wix, Purolator, and Mann make excellent filters that meet or exceed OEM specs. The key is to look for a filter with a silicone anti-drainback valve and a bypass valve pressure rating that matches Toyota's spec, typically 14-18 psi.
Cheap filters to avoid include no-name brands and the absolute lowest-priced options at parts stores. These often use paper end caps, cardboard bypass valves, and poor filtration media. Spending an extra $5 on a quality filter is cheap insurance.
Can you clean and reuse an oil filter? No. Modern spin-on filters are single-use. Don't try to wash them out.
The filter media degrades with use and can't be effectively cleaned.
What about cartridge filters? The 2007 4Runner uses a traditional spin-on metal canister filter. There's no cartridge to replace separately. That makes the swap simpler than some newer vehicles.
Common Mistakes Even Experienced DIYers Make
Even people who've changed oil for years make mistakes on the 2007 4Runner. Here are the most common ones.
Mistake 1: Using the V6 capacity in a V8. It's an easy mental slip. Both engines look similar from above. Both use 5W-30.
But the V8 needs that extra 0.2 quarts. Half a quart low might not trigger a warning light, but it's still low enough to cause problems under load.
Mistake 2: Overtightening the drain plug. The spec is 30 ft-lbs. That's about the same force you'd use to tighten a lug nut on a bicycle. Going tighter can strip the aluminum oil pan threads.
A stripped oil pan means a new oil pan or a Heli-Coil repair. Neither is fun.
Mistake 3: Forgetting to lubricate the filter gasket. A dry rubber gasket can grab and distort when you tighten the filter. That can cause a leak or make the filter impossible to remove next time. A thin film of fresh oil on the gasket solves both problems.
Mistake 4: Checking the dipstick on a slope. The 4Runner's dipstick tube runs almost straight down. If the truck is parked on a hill, the reading will be wrong. Always check on level ground.
Mistake 5: Using the wrong crush washer size. The 4Runner uses an M14 crush washer. Some aftermarket packs include multiple sizes. Using an M12 or M16 won't seal properly.
Match the washer to the plug.
Mistake 6: Not warming the engine before draining. Cold oil is thick and slow. You might leave half a quart of old oil in the pan. Warm oil drains completely, bringing more contaminants with it.
Mistake 7: Mixing oil brands or types mid-change. If you start with conventional and top off with synthetic, you now have a blend. That blend might not have the additive package Toyota designed for. Stick with one oil type for the full change interval.
For more on Toyota's oil requirements across different models, the specs for the Highlander show how even similar platforms can have different needs.
Maintenance Schedule: How Often Should You Change the Oil?
Toyota recommends oil changes every 5,000 miles for severe driving conditions and every 10,000 miles for normal conditions. Here's the honest breakdown of what that means for your 2007 4Runner.
Severe driving conditions include:
- Frequent short trips under 10 miles
- Driving in dusty or sandy conditions
- Towing a trailer
- Off-road driving
- Extreme hot or cold weather
- Repeated stop-and-go traffic
If any of these apply to your driving, follow the 5,000-mile schedule. Most 4Runner owners fall into this category, especially if they use the truck for its intended purpose, hauling, towing, or exploring.
Normal driving conditions mean mostly highway miles in moderate weather. If your 4Runner is a pavement queen that sees only gentle driving, 7,500 to 10,000 miles is acceptable with synthetic oil.
Time matters too. Even if you don't hit the mileage, change the oil once a year. Oil breaks down over time from heat cycles and moisture exposure. A truck that sits for months needs fresh oil before regular use.
What about the oil life monitor? The 2007 4Runner doesn't have one. Later models do. For this year, you're on the honor system.
Keep a log or set a reminder on your phone.
When to Call a Mechanic Instead of Doing It Yourself
DIY oil changes save money and give you control over what goes into your engine. But there are situations where a professional is the better choice.
You don't have the space or tools. Level ground, a drain pan, a 14mm socket, a torque wrench, and a filter wrench are the minimum. If you're working on a gravel driveway without a proper drain pan, you're creating an environmental hazard and making the job harder than it needs to be.
You've stripped the drain plug. If the plug is rounded off or the threads are damaged, stop. Don't try to force it. A mechanic can extract the plug and repair the threads.
Trying to "make it work" can crack the oil pan.
You can't reach the oil filter. The V8's filter location is tight. Some owners with large hands simply can't get a good grip on it. A shop with the right tools can get it off in minutes.
You don't want to deal with used oil disposal. Auto parts stores accept used oil, but it's a chore. If you'd rather not haul a drain pan full of hot oil across town, a shop handles that for you.
You're due for other service. While the oil is draining, it's a good time to check other fluids, inspect belts and hoses, and rotate tires. If those tasks are overdue, a shop can knock them all out in one visit.
Frequently Asked Questions
How much oil does a 2007 Toyota 4Runner V6 take?
The 4.0L V6 takes 6.2 quarts of oil with a filter change. Without a filter change, it takes 6.0 quarts. Always use 5W-30 viscosity oil with API SN or SP certification.
How much oil does a 2007 Toyota 4Runner V8 take?
The 4.7L V8 takes 6.4 quarts of oil with a filter change. Without replacing the filter, the capacity is 6.2 quarts. The recommended oil is 5W-30 meeting API SN or SP standards.
What type of oil does a 2007 4Runner use?
Toyota recommends 5W-30 viscosity oil for both the V6 and V8 engines. The oil must meet API SN or SP certification and ILSAC GF-5 or GF-6 standards. Synthetic, conventional, or synthetic blend are all acceptable.
Can I use 0W-20 in my 2007 4Runner?
You can, but it's not recommended. The 2007 4Runner's engine was designed for 5W-30. Using 0W-20 can increase oil consumption and reduce high-temperature protection.
Stick with the factory specification.
How often should I change the oil in a 2007 4Runner?
Toyota recommends every 5,000 miles for severe driving conditions and up to 10,000 miles for normal driving. Severe conditions include towing, off-road driving, short trips, and extreme temperatures. Change the oil at least once per year regardless of mileage.
Does the 2007 4Runner have an oil life monitor?
No, the 2007 model does not include an oil life monitoring system. You need to track your mileage manually or set a reminder. Later model years added this feature.
Can I switch from conventional to synthetic oil in my 2007 4Runner?
Yes, switching is safe. Conventional and synthetic oils are compatible. However, if you switch to synthetic, stick with it for the full change interval to get the extended protection benefits.
Mixing types mid-cycle creates a blend with unpredictable properties.
Choosing the Right Oil: Synthetic vs Conventional, Viscosity Explained
The 2007 4Runner's engine doesn't care whether you use synthetic or conventional. It cares about viscosity and certification. Let's break down your options.
5W-30 is the factory recommendation for both engines. That's what Toyota put in at the factory and what the owner's manual calls for. It's available in conventional, synthetic blend, and full synthetic formulations. Any of them work.
Synthetic oil flows better in cold weather and resists breaking down at high temperatures. It can extend your change interval from 5,000 miles to 7,500 or even 10,000 miles, depending on your driving conditions. The downside is cost, about double the price of conventional per quart.
Conventional oil is perfectly fine for this engine if you change it on schedule. Toyota's original engineering assumed conventional oil. Many 4Runners have gone 200,000 miles on nothing but conventional 5W-30.
Synthetic blend offers a middle ground. It's about 30% more expensive than conventional but provides better protection than straight conventional. For most owners, this is the sweet spot.
What about 0W-20? Some Toyota models from later years use it. The 2007 4Runner is not one of them. Using 0W-20 in a 1GR-FE or 2UZ-FE can cause increased oil consumption and reduced engine protection at high temperatures.
Stick with 5W-30.
If you're curious how other Toyota models compare, our guide on the proper oil for the 2021 Camry shows how specs vary across the lineup. Every engine has its own requirements.
Oil Filter: OEM vs Aftermarket – Does It Actually Matter?
The oil filter is a small component with a big job. It removes contaminants from the oil before they can circulate through the engine. A bad filter can let debris through.
A good filter can extend engine life.
Toyota OEM filters are made by Denso and carry part number 04152-YZZA1 (or the newer YZZA2). They have a bypass valve set to open at the correct pressure for the 1GR-FE and 2UZ-FE engines. They also have the right thread pitch and gasket size.
They cost about $8-12.
Aftermarket filters vary widely in quality. Brands like Wix, Purolator, and Mann make excellent filters that meet or exceed OEM specs. The key is to look for a filter with a silicone anti-drainback valve and a bypass valve pressure rating that matches Toyota's spec, typically 14-18 psi.
Cheap filters to avoid include no-name brands and the absolute lowest-priced options at parts stores. These often use paper end caps, cardboard bypass valves, and poor filtration media. Spending an extra $5 on a quality filter is cheap insurance.
Can you clean and reuse an oil filter? No. Modern spin-on filters are single-use. Don't try to wash them out.
The filter media degrades with use and can't be effectively cleaned.
What about cartridge filters? The 2007 4Runner uses a traditional spin-on metal canister filter. There's no cartridge to replace separately. That makes the swap simpler than some newer vehicles.
Common Mistakes Even Experienced DIYers Make
Even people who've changed oil for years make mistakes on the 2007 4Runner. Here are the most common ones.
Mistake 1: Using the V6 capacity in a V8. It's an easy mental slip. Both engines look similar from above. Both use 5W-30.
But the V8 needs that extra 0.2 quarts. Half a quart low might not trigger a warning light, but it's still low enough to cause problems under load.
Mistake 2: Overtightening the drain plug. The spec is 30 ft-lbs. That's about the same force you'd use to tighten a lug nut on a bicycle. Going tighter can strip the aluminum oil pan threads.
A stripped oil pan means a new oil pan or a Heli-Coil repair. Neither is fun.
Mistake 3: Forgetting to lubricate the filter gasket. A dry rubber gasket can grab and distort when you tighten the filter. That can cause a leak or make the filter impossible to remove next time. A thin film of fresh oil on the gasket solves both problems.
Mistake 4: Checking the dipstick on a slope. The 4Runner's dipstick tube runs almost straight down. If the truck is parked on a hill, the reading will be wrong. Always check on level ground.
Mistake 5: Using the wrong crush washer size. The 4Runner uses an M14 crush washer. Some aftermarket packs include multiple sizes. Using an M12 or M16 won't seal properly.
Match the washer to the plug.
Mistake 6: Not warming the engine before draining. Cold oil is thick and slow. You might leave half a quart of old oil in the pan. Warm oil drains completely, bringing more contaminants with it.
Mistake 7: Mixing oil brands or types mid-change. If you start with conventional and top off with synthetic, you now have a blend. That blend might not have the additive package Toyota designed for. Stick with one oil type for the full change interval.
For more on Toyota's oil requirements across different models, the specs for the Highlander show how even similar platforms can have different needs.
Maintenance Schedule: How Often Should You Change the Oil?
Toyota recommends oil changes every 5,000 miles for severe driving conditions and every 10,000 miles for normal conditions. Here's the honest breakdown of what that means for your 2007 4Runner.
Severe driving conditions include:
- Frequent short trips under 10 miles
- Driving in dusty or sandy conditions
- Towing a trailer
- Off-road driving
- Extreme hot or cold weather
- Repeated stop-and-go traffic
If any of these apply to your driving, follow the 5,000-mile schedule. Most 4Runner owners fall into this category, especially if they use the truck for its intended purpose, hauling, towing, or exploring.
Normal driving conditions mean mostly highway miles in moderate weather. If your 4Runner is a pavement queen that sees only gentle driving, 7,500 to 10,000 miles is acceptable with synthetic oil.
Time matters too. Even if you don't hit the mileage, change the oil once a year. Oil breaks down over time from heat cycles and moisture exposure. A truck that sits for months needs fresh oil before regular use.
What about the oil life monitor? The 2007 4Runner doesn't have one. Later models do. For this year, you're on the honor system.
Keep a log or set a reminder on your phone.
When to Call a Mechanic Instead of Doing It Yourself
DIY oil changes save money and give you control over what goes into your engine. But there are situations where a professional is the better choice.
You don't have the space or tools. Level ground, a drain pan, a 14mm socket, a torque wrench, and a filter wrench are the minimum. If you're working on a gravel driveway without a proper drain pan, you're creating an environmental hazard and making the job harder than it needs to be.
You've stripped the drain plug. If the plug is rounded off or the threads are damaged, stop. Don't try to force it. A mechanic can extract the plug and repair the threads.
Trying to "make it work" can crack the oil pan.
You can't reach the oil filter. The V8's filter location is tight. Some owners with large hands simply can't get a good grip on it. A shop with the right tools can get it off in minutes.
You don't want to deal with used oil disposal. Auto parts stores accept used oil, but it's a chore. If you'd rather not haul a drain pan full of hot oil across town, a shop handles that for you.
You're due for other service. While the oil is draining, it's a good time to check other fluids, inspect belts and hoses, and rotate tires. If those tasks are overdue, a shop can knock them all out in one visit.
Verified Specs Quick-Reference Card (V6 and V8)
Here are the numbers you'll need for your next oil change, all in one place.
| Spec | 4.0L V6 (1GR-FE) | 4.7L V8 (2UZ-FE) |
|---|---|---|
| Oil capacity with filter | 6.2 quarts (5.9 L) | 6.4 quarts (6.1 L) |
| Oil capacity without filter | 6.0 quarts (5.7 L) | 6.2 quarts (5.9 L) |
| Recommended viscosity | 5W-30 | 5W-30 |
| API certification | SN or SP | SN or SP |
| ILSAC certification | GF-5 or GF-6 | GF-5 or GF-6 |
| Drain plug torque | 30 ft-lbs (40 Nm) | 30 ft-lbs (40 Nm) |
| Oil filter torque | Hand-tight + ¾ turn | Hand-tight + ¾ turn |
| Drain plug size | 14mm | 14mm |
| Crush washer size | M14 | M14 |
Print this card or save it to your phone. Having the exact specs on hand prevents guesswork and keeps your 4Runner running strong for years to come.